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“全景式”视角下的服装艺术观——评安妮·霍兰德的《透视服装》    

A Panoramic View of the Concept of Fashion Art:Review of Seeing Through Clothes by Anne Hollander

文献类型:期刊文献

中文题名:“全景式”视角下的服装艺术观——评安妮·霍兰德的《透视服装》

英文题名:A Panoramic View of the Concept of Fashion Art:Review of Seeing Through Clothes by Anne Hollander

作者:白玉力[1]

第一作者:白玉力

机构:[1]北京联合大学艺术学院

第一机构:北京联合大学艺术学院

年份:2020

卷号:0

期号:2

起止页码:116-120

中文期刊名:艺术设计研究

外文期刊名:Art & Design Research

收录:国家哲学社会科学学术期刊数据库;CSSCI:【CSSCI2019_2020】;

语种:中文

中文关键词:安妮·霍兰德;服装;身体;艺术;图画

外文关键词:Anne Hollander;clothes;body;art;picture

摘要:《透视服装》出版于20世纪70年代,是讨论服装与艺术关系的先驱之作,也是经典之作。作者安妮·霍兰德结合作品实例对两千五百年以来西方艺术中人物形象的着装方式进行了深入透彻的分析,以细腻优美的文笔从服装视角展现出艺术的“创世”影响,包括绘画、雕塑、摄影在理想身体观念与现实着装形象之间所扮演的调停者的角色;并在此基础上,对作者的服装艺术观进行了强有力的论证—服装是一种具有自主性的艺术语言,其发展变化的动力主要在于审美愉悦,而不是联想因素。
Seeing Through Clothes was published in 1970s.As a book exploring the connection between clothes and art,it is both pioneer and classic.Author Anne Hollander makes a thorough examination of the clothed image of Western art during the two and a half thousand years of Western history.With a rich and evocative description,she represents the fundamental influence made by art from the perspective of clothing,revealing how painting,sculpture and photography mediate between bodily ideals and actual image.On this basis,the author persuasively proves her opinions about clothes as art:clothes are supposed to be an autonomous language and the shift in the look for clothing is primarily based on visual impulse and aesthetic value,rather than associative elements which is virtually subliminal.

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